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Even so, others have drawn a stark contrast between the bohemian demeanor of the Greenham women and the “bold make-up and power-dressing” that tended to define women’s fashion more generally in the 1980s (the so-called ‘designer decade’). For many years trite assumptions were often made about the sexuality of women with cropped hairstyles; a historian of the 1980s wrote of the Greenham Common “peace camp” in England that it “brought public awareness to feminist separation and even to lesbianism, hitherto seen in the mass media – when acknowledged at all – either in terms of Eton-cropped androgyny or of pornographic fantasy”. For example, Kerry Greenwood’s Cocaine Blues (1989) and succeeding novels about Phryne Fisher, a glamorous, but unconventional aristocratic investigator in late twenties Melbourne, Australia, conveyed an image – “five feet two 157.5 centimeters with eyes of green and black hair cut into a cap” – that was later cultivated stylishly on television by Essie Davis in ABC’s Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries (2012).
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The eclectic and free-spirited nature of modern boho style remains intact.
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In 2006 the Sunday Times identified fur gilets and “ugg-a-likes” as preferred winter wear for middle-aged women whom it described as the “botox-and-better-sex-after-40 brigade”. American celebrity stylist Rachel Zoe has been credited as helping to popularise boho style in the 2000s. Another, rather distinctive, exponent of the “vintage” look was actress and singer Zooey Deschanel, who, in June 2008, appeared on the front cover of the magazine BlackBook in a black lace-edged swimsuit. When I was a teenager in Paris, I only had one dress and one pair of shoes, so the boys in the house started dressing me in their old black coats and trousers.